Located along the rugged Yorkshire coast, RSPB Bempton Cliffs is recognised as one of the UK’s best nature reserves to visit if you fancy ogling at thousands of seabirds. During spring and summer, the towering chalk cliffs are bursting with life but upon arriving there’s a sense of calm yet anticipation as you walk through the wildflower meadows with the sea and horizon in the distance.
While there’s no doubt that the seabirds are the stars of the show (admittedly, it can be hard not to rush ahead in a seabird-fuelled frenzy), there’s plenty to see along the way. During summer, Burnet moths and Painted Lady butterflies can be found feeding on the colourful blooms of plants such as Thistle, Birds Foot Trefoil and Knapweed. Flitting between the meadows and scrub you might also spot Linnets, Reed Buntings and Sedge Warblers while, Swallows and Swifts are often soaring in the sky overhead. Bempton Cliffs is also home to a rather special little songbird – the Tree Sparrow, a Red-listed species that’s suffered substantial declines since the 1980’s. They are often considered shyer than the House Sparrow yet, here at Bempton they’re comfortable around visitors. Look out for their black cheek spot which is the telltale sign you’re looking at a Tree Sparrow rather than a House Sparrow.
Only once you reach the coast, set foot on one of the viewing platforms and look down across the cliffs are your senses awakened by the sudden electrifying sound and pungent smell of a seabird colony. If you’ve never experienced this sensory awakening before, it may take a second to adjust! Perhaps one of the greatest things about Bempton that draws in so many visitors is just how close the seabirds are. Nesting along the clifftops, the Northern Gannets are impossible to miss and at such proximity you can admire their beautiful blue eye rings and yellow nape up close. With an astonishing two metre wingspan, they are the largest seabird in the Northern Atlantic. On the other end of the scale are the Razorbills, Guillemots and Atlantic Puffins. All three species are small black and white birds belonging to the Auk family. Puffins are easily identified by their clown-like eyes and colourful beak but the differences between Razorbills and Guillemots are less obvious. Guillemots tend to huddle together in large numbers, fitting onto the smallest of ledges in their masses, they also have a long slender beak, and their dark feathers can appear more brown than black. Razorbills on the other hand, are often seen in pairs and have a contrasting jet black and white plumage. They also have striking white lines across their chunky beak and face.
Two other seabirds that you’re likely to see up close at Bempton Cliffs are the Black-legged Kittiwake and Fulmar. Kittiwakes are a dainty grey and white gull species, with a bright yellow beak and red eye ring. Surprisingly, while many people may have never seen a Kittiwake before, they are the most abundant gull species found in the UK. Then last but not least, the Fulmar. From a distance Fulmars may be mistaken for gulls due to their grey plumage, but they belong to the same family as Albatrosses. Look out for their characteristic flight which involves a few short rapid wing flaps followed by a long effortless glide. They also have very distinctive ‘tubenose’ beaks which feature nostrils specially adapted to remove excess salt from their bodies.
As you walk along the coast and take in the seabird drama, don’t forget to look behind across the fields every now and again as Kestrels, Skylarks, Corn Buntings and even Barn Owls can be seen. If you’re looking to plan a trip to Bempton Cliffs, the seabirds are present from March through to August but their numbers and activity peaks from April to July. To find out more, please visit: www.rspb.org.uk/days-out/reserves/bempton-cliffs
Words & photography by Charlotte O'Shea